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How much do Boxer puppies cost? / What forms of payment do we accept?

$850 without papers (family pet, papers are NOT important)
$1,350 with a 1 year health guarantee
Additional *$500 **LIMITED REGISTRATION (papers)** breeders rights (or waive fee to give me pick of litter, contract required) *Subject to pre approval and parent / registration inspection. We prefer to sell with limited registration as pets only but will make exceptions to the right breeders with certain guidelines and a contract in place.

Deposits: Are accepted in Walmart MoneyGram, Money order, Cashier check, personal check. Any of these forms must clear prior to releasing the puppy.

Payment upon the delivery/pick up of your new puppy: Cash only

We do* not accept credit cards (with the exception of $200 DEPOSITS - only). You may submit a *deposit of $200 via credit card. Cash only on any unpaid balance for puppy transfers.

By rendering any payment, you agree to the terms and conditions posted on our website.

Do I have to pre-qualify for a puppy from us?

No! So long as you know you can properly and unconditionally take care of a new puppy, you may purchase one of our puppies. You must be sure there are no issues or conditions that would be negative towards any puppy (or you).

In order to get one of our puppies, make a deposit (for pups not yet ready for release) or simply come out (or have delivered) and pick up your puppy (after they have met their published release date)/ If pups have matured (usually 8-10 weeks) as dictated by their individual development; no deposit is required.

Are deposits REQUIRED in order to get a puppy?

If pups have matured 8-10 weeks old ( dictated by their individual development), no deposit is required. Just pick up OR have your puppy delivered. Note: We require the delivery payment prior to heading out with the puppy.

Deposits are $200.00 minimum. Of course we will accept any amount over that should you wish to put down more.

Keep in mind, once NEW puppy pictures are posted, we allow depositors, first choices on pups IN THE ORDER IN WHICH THE DEPOSITS were received. Keep in mind, the puppy chosen first does NOT make him the best and the puppy chosen last, does NOT make him the worst. There's always a first and always a last. It's usually based on "eye candy" or emotional choosing based on looks. One persons treasure, can be another's trash and vice versa...

*More often than not, WE ALREADY HAVE DEPOSITS for litters that have NOT been born yet.

**Each litter will contain a certain number of pups. Once they are born and we know how many are available, then we can post on our web site, the amount of puppies we have available in that particular litter. If we already have pending deposits, those depositors initials will be posted in a box with numbers / positions (of the amount of puppies available on that litter), with initials of depositors next to those numbered puppies.

***If pups are already born and your considering putting down a deposit for a puppy, you will be able to select from the puppies, in the order in which your deposit was received.

****Sometimes, I as the breeder, need to select a puppy as well for my own stock. I as the breeder usually do NOT select a puppy (s) from any litter until around age 7 weeks. This time can vary but is never beyond 8 weeks of age. I as the breeder, only select puppies every few years. If I am selecting puppies on any litter, my initials will be posted / DB.

Puppies are selected based on pictures we post. We post puppies first pictures at approximately 1 week old and then every 2 weeks after that (because they don't change much any sooner than this) and we post different position pictures from pic to pic (top, sides, under belly, head straight on, profile, etc.). We like to have puppies selected by depositors as quickly as possible. We prefer this to be at 4 weeks old or sooner (they are released at 8-10 weeks) depending on their development (some litters develop / mature a little different than others) so this time frame is NOT written in stone, it's a guideline but as soon as the first client pics, we move up the line!

We keep all envelopes that deposits were sent in with as to validate or prove post marks if necessary. We post initials on our web site, and place them in the order in which they were received. If 2 checks come in on the same day, we go by post mark and times on the envelope.

You may ask "What happens if the pup I want never is available, because someone else selected it based on there deposit as received before mine? if a pup you would LIKE to have, based on pictures posted, you would simply select a different puppy that is still available... No matter which puppy you select, I can't see any reason why, you wouldn't love it, even if it were NOT your first choice. At this age (birth to 4weeks or so), they all look identical (EXCEPT for colorings/markings). Other than this one detail, they are essentially all the same (they are brothers and sisters). This is why we suggest put deposits in QUICKLY! By doing so, it moves you up the line in terms of selection slot. All pups are essentially the same so if you don't get the one that LOOKS the way you wanted, simply select another. You'll love that puppy just as much as another! It's like a NEW car that's for sale, there's one left in a certain color or options, you like that one but it sold, so you get another one just like it, but a different color perhaps but it operates and runs the same. It will run the same exact way. It's just what we call "eye candy" in terms of selection (a car or a puppy). We recommend you don't fall in love with any of the PICTURES of the puppies until it's YOUR TURN to select, this way your not disappointed as badly (if your NOT the # one depositor!!!)

We ask that when a deposit is sent, you text or email us to advise so we can watch for it and we do send an email confirmation upon receipt. If you choose NOT to submit a deposit, this is fine. If any are remaining UNSOLD on the release date, your welcome to come and look and see if you would like one at that time (we do NOT allow visitations prior to 1st vaccinations/physicals of the pups, see VISITATION POLICY on our web site. You'll know if any remain unsold by way of our FOR SALE page with pups NOT, marked pending or sold. The release date will be posted on the same puppy FOR SALE page as soon as it is estimated/determined (we post release dates at 60 days old but it can be as much as 10 weeks. This time frame can fluctuate based on puppy development but usually doesn't. Sometimes puppies can be released after 8 weeks if weaning is done at that time, first shots and physical is completed and their development is satisfactory.

Deposits are not refundable. We do not go back and forth accepting money then giving it back. DO NOT submit a deposit unless your committed to a deposit. If for whatever reason, you wish to get a puppy from the next litter, this is fine. We can swing your deposit to the NEXT litter if you wish if you just can't seem to get what you want in a current litter. We will allow this one time only.

How do I send in a deposit for a puppy?

We will ask you to write on the memo (for check deposits), some basic information. This helps particularly when there are multiple litters available, to avoid confusion and mistakes. When you mail the deposit, we will want to know, so we can put your initials on our web site followed by pending or SOLD over a puppy picture. If the births have not yet taken place, we will simply put you "in line", in a numerical sequence as deposits are received. When a deposit is mailed to us, TEXT US RIGHT AWAY and we will mark your slot "pending". If a deposit lands BEFORE yours does, you will be bumped down a notch. When we physically receive the deposit, we let you know and remove pending and change it to SOLD. If a puppy has been selected by you at this point (births already occurred), we also add your initials and SOLD across the puppy photo.

We may request you to put on the memo of your check, the desired puppy ID# (if births have already occurred) that you have selected if this is possible. Most of the time deposits are received BEFORE the births have occurred...

I, as the breeder, occasionally pull one or more puppies for my own stock for breeding purposes. This is usually every 4-6 years and will delay the selection process until after I select a needed puppy for breeding purposes. If in any litter I intend to select a puppy, it will be hand selected due to physical attributes that are particularly noteworthy to help in reproduction of those same or enhanced attributes. This is to help my producing particularly wonderful future puppies. If I ever intend to keep a puppy from ANY litter, everyone is advised of this during the pre-screening / pre-qualification process. This way you know that there could be a delay in MY selection of one or more puppies.

What's the procedure AFTER I send in a deposit
Technically nothing but to wait for the pups to mature some and become photogenic enough for you to select a puppy. You will select a puppy from pics we post online as the pups mature. Usually around 3-5 weeks old. When they can provide good looking pics as they mature, the selection process usually goes VERY fast...

Of course, you make your selection of a pup in the order in which your deposit was received, then the 2nd deposit received and so on. There will always be a 1st pick and a last pick. Neither means anything other than that's what the clients liked. The 1st pick selected does not mean it's the best and the last pick does not mean it's the worst puppy. It's simple selection, just like a pro ball payer, there's always a 1st pick and always a last pick, but they are all qualified players. So, if you get the LAST puppy, there's nothing wrong with it, it just means the others for whatever reason, had a different vision of what their pup should look like.

"Beauty is in the eye of EACH beholder", just like one persons trash is another's treasure, so don't worry. When the 1st puppy is selected, it DOES NOT mean the others aren't handsome or pretty, it's just the way the pups were selected... If you really want 1st pick, 2nd pick, 3rd pick & so on, get your
deposit in RIGHT AWAY ! If your not comfortable with being towards the end of a deposit chain, simply ask us to apply it towards the next litter and be FIRST, SECOND and so on...

Pictures of our adult or puppy Boxers...
We have very limited pictures of our adult Boxers on our web site and here's why... We do not want unauthorized use, distribution, reproduction or dissemination of ANY of our Boxers photographs.

As soon as we put pics up on our site, they can EASILY be reproduced and used by competitors or anyone else, without even our knowledge and consent We also don't want to enhance our competitors operations, if the use our images, this obviously makes no sense. Because of this, we refrain from adding them. Most of the pics of adult boxers are NOT our Boxers and our web site plainly states that pics on our site are for trying to enhance your experience and interaction with us and our web site portals.

It has taken us a long time to get where we're at now and we don't want to make it easy for anyone else. We also have on our site no unauthorized use or copying of ANY WRITTEN material off of our web site and yes, it's for the same reason. We have copyrights in place for this but we have experienced unauthorized use of this material as well resulting in legal expenses and time to defend our information.

So, we limit WITH GREAT EFFORT what we put on our site to eliminate future drama. We are happy to meet with you if you have serious concerns at a nearby park and have a play date. We can bring selected adult Boxers we can do this with that have exposure to"public" intermingling. Most of our Boxers have never even seen other adult humans or any age of any other type of dog (s). We limit their exposure since we are breeders and wish to limit exposure to disease which could literally RUIN our kennels breeding abilities (see visitation policy in faq's for more details on this).

Puppy pics. This is also covered on when we put them up, how long they remain up and how you get pics after you have made your selection. Our faq's cover our visitation policy and why we have one.

Finally, also pay close attention to ALL of our faq's, as we sell family pets and we tend to avoid "dramatic clients"... If your wanting a dramatic show dog, find another breeder and be sure to bring a BUNDLE of money to pay for it. Our Boxers ARE BOXERS... Our web site indicates in another faq area of our accreditation (s) our Boxers have. If you have concerns about us or our adult Boxers, simply find another breeder that makes you warm and fuzzy.
When can I come and get my selected or "ANY" puppy?
Release dates are posted on our web site and will be at 8-10 weeks of age.

We prefer to have all pups picked up on their release date, or immediately after. If you are unable to come on a particular release date, we will make accommodations for you at a day/time of your convenience, normally any of the 7 days a week at a time convenient for both of us.

Release dates are "preferably" on a Saturday or Sunday and can be just about any time and we allow about 30-45 mins to 1. get acquainted with your puppy, 2. go over feeding details, 3. bathroom habits and so forth, this way things aren't a mystery for you... 30-45 minutes in between each scheduled pick up time so folks aren't tripping over one another. It's pretty simple, render your cash payment / balance owed, get a couple facts to help the transition be easy and comfortable and that's it. We've had veteran Boxer owners in and out in 10 minutes - just render payment and take off.

When you arrive at your scheduled time frame, you will be afforded a short time to sit and play with your selection and get acquainted with him/her. We give you physical records, shot records and some helpful info about training etc.. If for some reason there are pups available that do NOT have deposits on them, you may sit with all remaining pups and play with them, then make a new - selection. If for some reason there is NOT a puppy you like when you physically come out, your deposit, it is not refundable. You may pass your deposit onto the next litter and get in line for those sales. This has never happened but if and when it does, YOU WILL AUTOMATICALLY bump down a notch, any depositors already in line. This has never happened yet, but it may one day. By your sending in a deposit, you acknowledge and agree to this condition and that you HAVE read our site thoroughly and agree to it's conditions.

   
Do we DELIVER / FLY / SHIP out our pups?
We can hand deliver your puppy to you for a fee, regardless of where you live. We will either fly the pup or courier the pup. Typically, courier is our preferred method, regardless of distance. This is because of personalized service and we don't have to worry about temperatures, food/water & periodic potty breaks (not to mention WAY LESS STRESS on the animal)

Ask us for our current rates from our zip code to your zip code.

What color Boxers are available?
Throughout the year, we always produce reverse brindle (sometimes called sealed brindle or black), Fawn (brown).
What is a "flashy" puppy?
This is when a pup has patches of colors on their bodies, usually white on the face or back of neck. This can be any shape patch but can also be a long stripe or section of white. This does not make them valuable or special, it's sometimes more desirable simply because it's unique to that particular puppy and MAINLY to the eyes of the beholder. Some folks specify they want a flashy puppy only. This is simply ones preference or what I call "eye candy". If Mom produces puppies with these characteristics, your lucky. It's purely up to Mom and Mother Nature. We get what we get..
Will there be any brindle pups?
At this time, we do not offer brindle pups. Not that there's anything wrong with this color, it's just not something I really like as the breeder. I personally prefer reverse brindle and fawn and this is the only reason why I have no brindles / I think brindles are particularly hard to reproduce with color grids/patterns I find appealing so I just don't produce them. I personally have only seen a handful of what I would consider pretty brindles so I just stay with simple colors like reverse brindle and fawn. I rarely have inquiries for brindle pups.
Will there be any all white pups?
No. I don't care for this color in a Boxer but they are unique. If you want an all white Boxer, be sure to do research on this on your own with respect to what to expect from this color Boxer, I'll leave it at that.
What is the most popular color of a Boxer?
Historically Boxers are most popular in fawn. Most Boxer show dogs are very, very equally cut with patterns and patches of white against a fawn background with cropped ears (pointy and sticking up). I do admit, these Boxers are VERY pretty/handsome to look at and I would love to have one myself but the cost is just too much to buy a stud &/or mom. Several thousand dollars!!! This would cause my costs to escalate to a typical $3,000 to $5,000 range or more, for a puppy. Of course after such an investment, usually follows all sorts of tests to protect that investment, which run a couple or few thousand dollars more. No matter what, I always recommend to clients, NOT to select these puppies at this price point because, these animals thrive as simple regular dogs! Not being poked and prodded or pranced around on show circuits. I find any animal thrives in a natural environment, not a painted environment. This is my opinion.

To me it's like buying a black car. Be prepared to wash it more often, wax it more often, buy a car cover and a special climate controlled garage (if you want it to always look perfect) and never park it next to any other cars for fear of a ding or a scratch and only expensive hand car washes. Any animal carrying such high purchase prices, usually is followed by EXTENSIVE tests. I'd have to keep them in a padded room, fear for any sickness or even a cold, provide a temperature controlled environment and not allow them to live the life of a normal dog. They'd need a palace and all the palatial things that go along with it and I just don't have the time for this. Plus, I'd rather not have to worry about them getting a scratch or scar from playing out in the woods "ruining them". My dogs live like kings by being able to wrestle, sometimes bite each other from an argument over a bone, get totally dirty or muddy swimming in our mud bottom pond, rolling in stinky stuff they find in the woods, digging for a mole or chasing squirrels. I don't feed them with silver spoons and name them Muffy, Ferrous Von Deulseldorf or King Von HitlerHoffer... My dogs are "one of the family" a perpetual 2 year old who raises cane by getting in the trash sometimes getting scolded and often getting a spot on the couch during movie night from drooling from wanting popcorn.. Often times, this breed becomes "one of the family members" sleeping in beds, getting their own pieces of chicken or pancakes for breakfast etc..
Do we crop Boxers ears?
Not very often, currently I have 2 new additions to my family of Boxers. Hand selected Reverse Brindles with particular attributes I have hand selected, that will replace retired Boxers in 1-2 years from now. One will be a future stud and the other a future birth Mom. The stud will stay with a family member while in college and return as needed for other birth Moms when they are in heat and to visit their siblings and cousins. Most of my studs stay with relatives and are my Boxers but they are their extended family and only visit our kennel on Holidays when everyone gets together or when mating is required.

I normally do NOT crop ears but these two particular Reverse Brindles are so unique, we just had to ad to their particularly beautiful colorings and overall appearance. Mainly, I leave my Boxers ears natural (with the exception of their long tails which are usually ALWAYS cut). I usually always have tails cropped. Keep in mind a Boxer with their long tail, there's absolutely NOTHING wrong with that.

 
Why are dew claws removed?
Basically because this prevents damage to the claw. If not removed, the likelihood of it getting caught, snagged and torn off is high. It's best to remove them in the first 2 hours of life, then you never have to worry about them and having a bleeding animal, a trip to the vet, an unnecessary expense and blood loss / pain to the pet. It only takes a second to remove them and it's like a pinch to the puppy and only lasts a moment.
When are pups ready throughout the year?
 
This is hard to forecast ACCURATELY in advance. Once one of adult my moms go in heat, then and only then can I closely watch and document successful mating and then with great accuracy, predict dates which are usually 63 days after conception has occurred. Conception usually happens in about a daily mating process over about a 5 day period. This means I can be off on an actual expected published birth date by 1-5 days. Normally, I'm dead on. When a mom of mine goes into heat, I only allow certain male studs to have contact with each particular mom (no inbreeding here though very tempting at times). I am careful to only allow certain breeding with certain Boxers I have and I have several Moms and just 3 prize studs. I do hand select pups periodically that have especially handsome or pretty markings (or complete lack of) as part of my brew.

This is in an effort to produce certain looking offspring that I find appealing and that over the years, I observe my clients have looked mainly for. This is a long arduous process to get to where I am today. I do this in an effort to attempt to produce what I find particularly "universally" awesome pups, based on what I observe as what the vast majority of my clients have looked for combined with what I find "universally" appealing to the masses OVERALL.

I prefer to avoid buyers that want or ask for "show quality" pups in the context that THEY, look at things. These buyers are often hard to please and put the pups under a microscope (for lack of a better term). I prefer a buyer who simply wants a family pet, not "eye candy" or something like a "trophy wife". This is just too much for me to deal with! I work very hard to have produced what my Moms produce and I feel this is sufficient and these "high maintenance people", I have recommended to find other breeders who like the attention...

If you want a good quality purebred Boxer from a responsible breeder, I'm your guy. Don't be surprised if your told to find another breeder if you come off as a trophy hunter. Not that there's anything wrong with that but again, I just don't need the DRAMA !!!

If you want a simple family pet, again, I'm your guy. My Boxers are not coddled by me at all. I let them be Boxers. They have scars from having a branch poke them while chasing a rabbit in the woods, they are allowed to get dirty and occasionally catch and kill a skunk in the woods and they often find something stinky (really stinky) to roll in they found out in the woods. They run freely with as needed supervision but are NOT wild. They sleep in the house or in out buildings I have for them. So, if your looking for PERFECT looking with absolute perfect "SHOW" markings and distribution (with a spec of this here or a spec of that there), keep it to yourself please, look for what you want in the litter line up and pick what you want but please don't make a big deal out of it up front with ME... I'd rather have a buyer that wants a pretty or handsome overall looker and is a simply family pet and this is what is produced here overall. Sometimes, prettier than others and others times, not so much. I don't make the rules, Mother Nature does (I just try to manipulate them).

How long after the pups are born can they be released?
Usually 8-10 weeks. This varies based on things like time of year, weaning completions, litter development. These can vary from litter to litter.
Are there any guarantees with pups with respect to health guarantees?
Yes. This carries an extra charge. There is an extra charge due to extended liability I carry in the event a puppy has any genetic defects and I have to replace a puppy. To date, the only thing I am aware of that has happened with any of my pups is a cleft lip or pallet (at birth) and once, an umbilical hernia occurred (from the mom pulling at the cord during birth to hard). All are fairly easy to correct. A cleft lip or pallet happens to humans all over the world and is corrected with surgery.

An umbilical hernia can usually be corrected by repeated massaging of the hernia, it's just some fat that leaked past the skin outside the belly. This usually happens because the mom has pulled to hard on the umbilical cord after birth. My daughter had an umbilical hernia when she was born and I did essentially the same thing to the hernia and it took care of it and she still has a normal belly button to this day.

This covers genetic abnormalities that affect the nervous system where the dog cannot function on it's own at all. This has NOT happened yet but may, some day. Something that would cause the Boxer to be unable to eat or stand on it's own, seizures etc. (not a common cold or a benign button tumor). I reserve the right to decide if a puppy should be replaced in the 12 months after purchase. I'll be fair but if it's not something I would want to deal with in my own brew of Boxers, I wouldn't expect you to either and I'd be happy to replace your Boxer. On the other hand, if you gave your puppy chicken bones and it chocked to death, don't expect a replacement. I would require a veterinarian statement of issues or death (this is for any dishonest folks that might be out there) that may have had their Boxer run over and are trying to get a free puppy.

If a health care guarantee is NOT purchased, the following conditions still apply...

The buyer agrees to have the dog examined by your veterinarian at your expense within 3 days from date of purchase. If veterinarian does not give the dog a clean bill of health, buyer must remedy any ailment at their expense.

Seller has no obligation to remedy any condition existing and is not obligated to have the dog re-examined by anyone at their cost. Any condition that is minor or not, correctable or not, or any breed related minor or major condition is not covered and no condition which a dog will likely grow out of or not, is not covered and not the responsibility of the seller.

The dog is still warranted only for the purposes of being a companion animal, not for any other purpose or reason.

No warranty is given to the buyer for any special purpose or function of the dog. The dog is not to be used for any illegal or immoral activities and is not to be used for any puppy mill, dog farm or other mass producing or money making operation.

The dog remains to be sold to buyer as a pet only and nothing further.

Can a pup from us have health issues?
To date, I have no reported issues. Does this guarantee this will NEVER happen? No..
Sooner or later I imagine there will be an issue with a puppy. I personally think getting the guarantee is over rated but it is available if you want one. 99% of every buyer never gets this added item, I've literally had ONE client get this to date. The way I look at it is this, if you have children of your own, they don't come with any guarantees against health issues or defects and this doesn't prevent most people from having children so why should it worry you about an animal !!!
How long do Boxers live to?
Typically, I don't see Boxers living BEYOND 10-12 years old. Even 6 to 8 years is great, so treat them nicely every chance you get.
Do Boxers make good family pets?
 
In my opinion - You bet they do! They are great around children and a loyal loving breed. Of course how you treat the animal is usually typical how their personalities develop. My adults listen VERY well, they behave VERY well and I have almost no complaints. This has a lot to do with their environment, social network with each other and their extended human family. I can easily train Boxers with little or no difficulty.
 

What size and weight typically?
Usually around 50#-60# for a female and usually around 70#-92# for a male. The largest male I have ever had is 92# and the smallest adult female I have ever had was 58#.
Can the breeder predict color, size or temperament?
No. Mother nature can, but not the breeder. Usually, the color of the parents is usually what turns out. I have had for example a fawn in a litter with both adults being reverse brindle and vice versa.
Can I breed puppies of my own with a puppy I purchase here?
Only if you purchase "breeders rights"! This is an extra charge of $499 and requires signed / written consent from me the breeder among other things. I can waive this fee in exchange for "pick of the litter" on one future litter and a stud fee. Right now I am NOT accepting any deposits from anyone intending to breed. I have a list already and I do not want to add to it at this time.
Where is the breeder located?
Huntertown, In 46748, a suburb of Ft. Wayne Indiana
   
   
Do we sell pet cages for potty training?
  Yes, when you purchase a puppy from us, you may also purchase a new or used crate training cage. We will buy back crate training cages and carriers as well after your done with them and pay for the shipping or you can just sell them or donate them yourself. Buybacks, we re-sell them to future clients the same way simply to save them the expense of new on something only used for a short time. You can also buy new on your own from any store and we will buy them from you to re-purpose them.

If you already have a crate training cage that you recently purchased, save the packaging and ship it to us when your done using it if you like, at a predetermined price. We'll then recycle it to others temporarily at reduced costs to save a few bucks and taxes. Contact us with any questions on our contact us link or to see if we have any items for your puppy.